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Even though today is balmy 55° in New York City, we’re still in January and a great time to enjoy the wines of one of my favorite region in France, Chateauneuf du Pape.
Chateauneuf du Pape has enjoyed in recent years an unprecedented level of attention due to the rising quality of its wines, but it seems to me that some estate have started to taste like a bad caricature of themselves. Overripe and without real backbone, they may satisfy the ratings-drinker but most likely leave a real wine lover unimpressed.
I recently discovered new estate from Chateauneuf that reminded me of the great Rayas I used to enjoy many years ago and I would like to share it with you. Remember, Rayas is not only the name of one of the great estate of the appellation but also the name of the sandy terroir that surrounds it. Unlike the more boulder-ladden soils that are well known, the sandy soils of Rayas give a more harmonious and elegant style of Chateauneuf.
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Chapelle St Theodoric is a relatively new estate co-owned by American importer Peter Weygandt and Domaine de Cristia owner Baptiste Grangeon. From biodynamically-farmed vineyards located in the sandy part of Chateauneuf du Pape near Rayas, they fashion 3 old school wines made from 100% whole-clusters old vine Grenache (yields are very low at 14 hectoliters per hectare) aged for 18 months in large demi-muids (the Sablons however is aged in smaller old oak barrels).
“Les Sablons” is the opening opus from this estate, from fruit harvested near Domaine de Cristia. Don’t be surprised by its “light” ruby robe as it packs a punch! It has traditional aromas of licorice, dark berries and a spicy center and is a great introduction to the world of traditional Chateauneuf.
The 2 top cuvees from this estate are “La Guigasse”, from a mostly sandy terroir, has a deep purplish robe, aromas of licorice, dark fruits and Provençal herbs. It is full bodied and rich with a long finish. This drinks well already but will keep easily for up to 10-15 years.
“Le Grand Pin” is the flagship wine from St. Theodoric, harvested from old vine Grenache from a vineyard adjacent to Rayas. Like a good Rayas there is a purity to the ruby robe that’s hard to match and deep aromas of dark berries, licorice and spices. While this is a powerful wine, it is quite elegant and regal. One of the best 2009 I have tasted.
We offer 10% discount on 6 bottles purchased and 15% on 12
CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE, CHAPELLE ST. THEODORIC “LES SABLONS” 2009-46.99
CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE, CHAPELLE ST. THEODORIC “LA GUIGASSE” 2009-62.99
CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE, CHAPELLE ST. THEODORIC “LE GRAND PIN” 2009-94.99
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on Tuesday, January 31st, 2012 at 12:00 pm and is filed under Jean-Luc’s Articles.
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