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The White Burgundy of Patrick Javillier

One of my original purchase upon taking my first job as a sommelier in 1994 was an assortment of wines from Domaine Patrick Javillier. From his simple Bourgognes Blancs to his village Meursaults, there was a purity, yet wholesomeness to Patrick’s wines that immediately attracted me. My first vintage was 1992 and his best wines from this vintage are still vibrant at age 20.

This year marks the 18th harvest I’ve bought from Patrick Javillier and also the release of the superb 2010 vintage, maybe the best white wine vintage in Burgundy of the last 20 years.

“With the excellent acidities that are roughly equivalent to what we had in 2008, the wines are actually powerful, balanced and exceptionally persistent. For those who love classically styled and structured burgundies, 2010 will provide much to admire.”

Patrick Javillier

Patrick Javillier Bourgogne Blanc Les Forgets 2010 

This cuvee comes from different parcels in the Bourgogne Blanc appellation situated in the territory of Meursault les Herbeux and les Vaux next to Volnay.

“A fruity, expressive and very fresh nose of citrus, earth and soft floral aromas leads to rich, round and delicious flavors that possess good mid-palate volume and density, all wrapped in a punchy and moderately complex finish. A quality Bourgogne.”

Allen Meadows, Burghound

Patrick Javillier Bourgogne Blanc Cuvee Oligocene 2010 

This wine comes from the les Pellans vineyard. Les Pellans vineyard is half classed in the Meursault appellation and the other half in the Bourgogne appellation despite the same soil in the entire vineyard.

“This is aromatically similar to the Forgets though here there is a bit more elegance as the floral component is more distinct plus there is a trace of wet stone as well. The rich, round and vibrant flavors are notably more intense with really lovely depth and length for a wine of this level. Recommended and this would be a great choice for a house white.”

Allen Meadows, Burghound

Meursault Les Tillets 2010 

Les Tillets is above Meursault, near the mountain exposed south/south-east.

“As is almost always the case, this is more restrained, more elegant and the fruit profile is much cooler with its mix of hazelnut, lemon/lime and acacia blossom suffused nose. There are prominent mineral notes to the detailed, precise and tension-filled middle weight flavors that terminate in a chiseled, indeed even angular, finish of outstanding persistence. Again, this is a terrific villages.” 

Allen Meadows, Burghound

Patrick Javillier Corton Charlemagne 2010 (Extremely Limited)

This parcel is in Les Pougets with a full South orientation.

“An exceptionally fresh and ripe if restrained nose of cool apple, peach and abundant stone hints that also abundantly suffuse the rich, powerful and dense medium weight plus flavors that possess plenty of mouth coating dry extract. There is a succulent, indeed even opulent texture and this is one of those 2010s that could actually be drunk now with pleasure even though there is much more development potential present.”

Allen Meadows, Burghound  

Hennessy Cuvee Bicentenaire

 In 1977, Hennessy released a one-time bottling to celebrate America’s Bicentennial.  It was a blend of very old Cognac, made to replicate the richer style of Brandy which would have been popular at the time of the Revolutionary War.  Because of its very limited production, the bottles quickly disappeared….until we found 3 cases hidden in a private cellar.

“This is one of the most unique and fascinating Cognacs I’ve ever experienced.  It smells and tastes like Christmas, with white pine, cinnamon, nutmeg, quince, candied pear, freshly cut grass, mustard seed, plums on the nose while the palate is viscous and honeyed, with well-defined sweetness and black pepper spice on the finish.  Absolutely Remarkable.”

JT Robertson

If you’re looking for early Holiday gifts or just want to add a rare and amazing bottle to your spirits collection, grab a bottle while you can.  It will never come again.

Domaine Daniel Rion 

Bourgogne Rouge 2010

 The first arrivals of 2010 Burgundy are starting to trickle onto our shores.  If you haven’t been paying attention to such things, let us tell you, 2010 is a truly righteous vintage.  It is a year which possesses a tremendous purity;  grace coupled with hidden depths.  If I had to pick a vintage in the 21st century to use as an example of what makes Burgundy so special, it would be 2010.

That being said, the crop was down almost 30% in 2010 and wine collectors in Asia are starting to get the Burgundy bug so there won’t be a lot of wine to go around.  As quickly as they come, they’ll be gone.  

Which is why we’ll do our best to let you know when the good stuff comes along.

Domaine Daniel Rion was formed as early as 1955 but until the late 70s, all the grapes were sold to large negociants for bottling.  After Daniel’s retirement in 1995, his sons took over.  With impressive vineyard holdings all across the Cote D’Or, Domaine Rion has become a great source for traditionally styled Red Burgundy.

The Bourgogne Rouge comes from 2 hectares in Nuits Saint Georges.  It is a dark garnet color with notes of baked cherry, cinnamon and faint pepper on the nose.  The palate is remarkably precise with a focus of fruit in the front, arraying the whole range of tart red fruits, before settling into a dense center (which will surely yield exciting secondary flavors given 2-3 years of bottle age) and a positively refreshing finish.  This is a perfect example of how a great vintage can raise all boats.  

Navazos-Palazzi Single Oloroso Cask 

Brandy de Jerez 375 ml

La Rioja Alta Viña Arana 

Mixed Vintage 6 Pack

A few months back, we proudly presented the Rioja Alta Viña Ardanza 2001 up for sale and it was one of our most successful offers of the year.  It inspired us to take a hard, long look at the fantastic wines coming out of Rioja, in generaly, and La Rioja Alta in specific.  Which is why, when we heard they were set to re-release their Viña Arana back into the United States after a lengthy absence, we were more than just a little excited.  La Rioja Alta is one of the absolute benchmarks of quality in the region, founded in 1890 by a small, dedicated group of vignerons.

If La Rioja Alta is a family, Ardanza might be the big, strapping brother but the Arana is the gorgeous, graceful sister.  Entirely sourced from an exceptional single vineyard with a limestone base, every bottle of Viña Arana spends 3 years in used American oak casks before being bottled unfined and unfiltered.   In order to re-introduce America to this lovely lady, La Rioja Alta is releasing a very small quantity of mixed vintage 6 packs.  

Each pack contains 6 unique and outstanding vintages of the Viña Arana inside a specialized wooden box.  The Bodega is making the mixed 6 packs to order so they will not be available outside of this very limited offer.  

2005

“Sheer class.  Think classic savoury aromas tinged with earthiness and smoke.”

Decanter

2001

“Sweet raspberry flavors betraying no rough edges.”

International Wine Cellar

1996

“Deep and concentrated.”

Decanter

1994

“Elegant, medium-bodied, tasty, lush, smoke-infused cherry.”

Wine Advocate

1991

“Strong supporting acids give the wine a very firm edge.”

International Wine Cellar

1987

“A sense of elegance, suppleness, and clean, friendly, generous scents and flavors.”

Wine Advocate

Marcel Deiss:

The Outlaw of Alsace

It’s a rare individual who can get the French to change their wine laws.  They must be equal parts crazy, persistent and brilliant.  But that’s just what Marcel Deiss did in 2005.  According to the government, any bottle of Alsatian wine was required to list the grape varietals on the label.  Jean-Michel Deiss, son of founder Marcel, thought differently.  For years, he’d been bottling some his top vineyards as Field Blends, harvesting and fermenting everything together.  He feels this is the best way to best express his extraordinary terroir.  For this, he was branded an outlaw!

While using a mix of grapes might not seem strange to lovers of the Rhone or Bordeaux, Alsace takes many of its traditions from Germany, where terroir is best communicated through a single varietal.  Deiss walks his own path.

“Using just one grape is like trying to write poetry with one syllable.”

While his style might not be popular with his peers, the results speak for themselves.  As he has transititioned into all-biodynamic farming and fully embraced his “Vin de Terroir” style of winemaking, Domaine Marcel Deiss has taken its place as one of the great white wine producers of the world.

We are please to offer a very limited amount of his single vineyard Vin de Terroir, including his crown jewel, the Altenberg de Bergheim.

Marcel Deiss Rotenberg 2003

91 Points-International Wine Cellar

A roughly 50/50 blend of riesling and pinot gris, grown on reddish Jurassic calcaire soil. Pale bright yellow color. Pink grapefruit, honey and spices on the open nose. Very sweet but spicy and juicy, conveying a strong impression of energy and precision. This has a chewy solidity but remains light on its feet. Wonderfully expressive, intense wine with real thrust and power, not to mention cut and length. Transcends the vintage.  

Marcel Deiss Altenberg de Bergheim 2004

94 Points-Wine Advocate

From a Grand Cru-rated and traditionally great Gewurztraminer site which Deiss has here densely-planted with the entire range of Alsace cepages, his 2004 Altenberg de Bergheim is redolent of honey, lily, baking spices, orange liqueur and citrus zest. With tremendous polish, richness and honeyed botrytis character on the palate, this has an underlying density suggestive of minerality and presumably going far to explain why nearly three-digit residual sugar results in a wine that is certainly sweet but not overbearingly so. Candied citrus, orange liqueur and marmalade, peach preserves, nut paste, honey, and vanilla, along with doughy richness and buttery texture give this wine a patisserie character - if one simply imagines dustings of chalk dust instead of flour. It finishes with remarkable lift and elegance for a wine of such sheer richness.